How to Spec Ceramic + Porcelain Tile in Commercial Design

How to specify ceramic and porcelain tile for commercial construction, workplace, healthcare, hospitality + senior living projects. Providing designers with helpful tools, methods, and practices for commercial tile application and installation. Centralized information on topics including floor tile, wall tile, shade variation, grout, edge protection, movement joints, tile visualizers, and more.

Image courtesy of Floridatile

Image courtesy of Floridatile


Ceramic tile has been around for centuries (we’re talking the 4th century BC!), and for good reason: it’s beautiful, natural, and will stand the test of time. This hearty building material is made of clay that is formed into tile shapes and fired at high temperatures, permanently hardening the tile. Ceramic tile is best for vertical applications, but you may use it for flooring if it has a thicker body, smaller format, higher density, and a slip-coefficient that is tested properly. Glossy tile is not safe for flooring.

Ceramic tile | Image courtesy of Floridatile

Ceramic tile | Image courtesy of Floridatile

Porcelain is a subcategory of ceramic: it’s made from a mixture of clay, feldspar and other fine minerals that are packed more densely and fired at a much higher temperature than ceramic, which results in a more durable tile that is suitable for wall, flooring and even exterior applications.

Porcelain tile | Image courtesy of Floridatile

Porcelain tile | Image courtesy of Floridatile

The TCNA, coined by commercial flooring insiders as the “Tile Bible,” is a reference book you should consider keeping in your library for easy reference. It includes tile installation practices and methods, standards, ratings, details, and more - essentially everything you’d ever need to know about tile. For example, if you’re looking for non-slip tile for a shower room, the TCNA would require the tile to meet or exceed a DCOF (Dynamic Coefficient of Friction) of .42.

Tile Specification Considerations

Large format tile is generally considered to be over 15” in dimensional length on any side. One important thing to know about tile, especially large format, is that it will never be perfectly flat. Heating the material causes tile to expand or contract, changing its shape in the process. One common, easy-to-make mistake is specifying a tile layout with a 50% offset; this creates a basketweave effect called “lippage.” This effect is worsened by direct lighting, such as wall washers, so consider your lighting source as well. You can help avoid lippage by specifying an offset of no more than 33%.

Grout joints can also affect the look of the installed tile. If you specify a slightly larger grout joint (at least ⅛”), it will help create an even-looking installation because there is more room for flexibility. If you are interested in a large format material that is closer to perfectly flat, consider looking into sintered and pyrolithic materials, which are fired using different techniques that result in a more uniform outcome.

Other considerations are thickness and adjacencies; for example, when specifying a small tile next to a large tile on the same plane. Larger tiles need to be thick enough that  they don’t break. If they are installed on the same plane as smaller tiles, the large tiles will stick out further from the wall. It’s not recommended, but if you do create a design mixing tiles, you need to build up the substrate for the small tiles to accommodate the difference in tile thickness.

All porcelain tile has a standard deviation  between tiles of 3%, meaning there is variation from the average facial dimension of a tile. For small tiles, 3% is not a big deal. But for large format tiles, 3% deviation can mean substantial differences between tiles. Specifying a larger grout joint (⅛”) will hide this variation.

When working with large format tile, it’s important  to take cracking precautions. The installer should back butter (apply full coverage of the setting material to the tile back) each tile before laying. Consider the existing conditions of the space - it may need thicker mortar for larger formats. All of this is usually up to the installer, but designers can add a note for safety: “Install per TCNA standards.”

Mosaic tiles are tile pieces around 2”x2” or smaller glued on a mesh backing, or face-taped with clear mylar or paper. Mosaic tiles can be used almost anywhere, but they are commonly used for shower floors, retail, hospitality and historic applications because of their  beauty and limitless ways to be customized. Anything is possible with mosaic tiles - they’re great for creatively branding spaces. However, they are more expensive than larger tiles due to the labor-intensive manufacturing process. 

Mosaicsdesigns formed by arranging mosaic tiles — are great for shower floors and sloping for drains because more grout = more slip resistance. You can use matte or glossy mosaics on the floor for this reason. They are also great for hugging curves, such as columns. Some companies that manufacture their own tile, such as Daltile, can assemble custom designs on the mesh backings during the manufacturing process, making it easy to send to the site and install directly (versus installing each tile individually into a complex pattern). Be sure to design this early on, as this service increases lead time. Mosaics can be harder to clean because there is more grout; however, paying to have it sealed will help.

Ground Kontrol restrooms in Portland, OR | Image courtesy of Daltile

Ground Kontrol restrooms in Portland, OR | Image courtesy of Daltile

Elements of Tile & Installation

Tile will either have rectified or non-rectified (also called “pressed” tile) edges. 

Non-rectified tile has pillowed edges, resulting from pressing. These tiles are sometimes more affordable, and there is not a super noticeable difference between pillowed and rectified edges to the average person. 

Rectified tile means that the pillowed edge is ground to a precise dimension. A micro bevel is added to prevent chipping when shipped. These tiles allow for a cleaner and tighter grout joint.

Porcelain tiles have .5 or less water absorption rate, because of the density of the minerals. This prevents moisture from absorbing into the tile, or its water resistance, which can potentially cause cracking, and they do not need to be sealed. Unglazed or crackle glazed tiles, however, need a sealant. Always double check with the manufacturer to prevent staining. Penetrating sealers are great for grout. 

If you need a waterproof substrate, such as in shower rooms, use a cement backerboard or waterproof fiberboard and a waterproofing membrane. Otherwise, tile can be installed on plywood or drywall, but never directly onto concrete as this can cause major cracking as the building moves. Use an uncoupling membrane over concrete, so the tile moves separately. Check out Schluter, Laticrete, Custom Building Products, Mapei, Ardex, TEC, or Bostik for tile products (moisture barriers, grout, etc). Working in collaboration with your manufacturer’s rep and your flooring installer will help your project move forward successfully.

Tile needs movement joints at intersections of planes, such as at corners or where the wall and bathtub meet. Instead of grout, installers will add silicone which allows the tile to move, preventing cracking or material failure.

Finish edge protection, such as Schluter or Profilitec, are becoming more common than tile trim pieces, possibly because trim pieces tend to be costly. Trim pieces are still a great look for hospitality and multi-family projects. Glazed edges are another option. Some through-body tiles can  look finished by polishing the edge and using a clean finger grout along the outside edge. Edge protection is especially important to think about in instances where you may have heavy foot traffic.

Need inspiration for tile layouts? Check out this helpful resource.

Tile Color

Ceramics can have minimal or obvious color variation from tile to tile. A V1-V2 rating means the tiles are solid, uniform in color, or have minimal variation. V3 and V4 ratings show substantial variation, creating beautiful undulating effects. Be sure to explain this to your client so they are aware of the final outcome. You should order multiple samples of V3 and V4 tiles, and share installation photos to show the variation. 

Example of tiles with color variation| Image courtesy of Fireclay Tile

Example of tiles with color variation| Image courtesy of Fireclay Tile

Some clients are inspired by tile colors on social media; however, if there is a filter applied to the photo, this can impact expectations and some colors are impossible to replicate. 

Through-body color (typically always porcelain) is when the color and pattern run all the way through the tile Because these tiles are the most forgiving, they work great for high traffic areas, outside corners, and exposed edges. Ceramic and porcelain tiles are more commonly color body. This means the body of the tile (often red clay) closely matches a color of the printed image or glazing on top. If it chips, it is more obvious than through-body.

Grout

Don’t forget about specifying your grout! You will want to consider the size, color and type of grout for the type of tile, application, and aesthetic. Grout has three main purposes: it fills the gaps between tiles, and protects the tile edges from chipping. It also allows for movement in the entire system of tile installation.

The smallest grout size you can get away with is a 1/16” joint with rectified tile. This is typically recommended for walls only, because walls are more straight and flat than flooring. For flooring, the minimum is ⅛” grout. For pressed tile, you will want a minimum of ⅛” for both flooring and wall applications. Always double check with your tile rep.

A general grout type recommendation is cementitious grout. If you have a porcelain tile with ⅛” grout joint as flooring, specify a sanded grout to fill the grout size. For a 1/16” joint, specify unsanded grout for both ceramic and porcelain. Note: If there’s a high gloss sheen to the tile, specify unsanded so it doesn’t scratch the face of the tile. 

Save epoxy grout for healthcare, commercial kitchens, and more hygienic areas. It has a  “plasticky” finish, making it easy to clean. Because it is difficult to install, epoxy grout tends to be more expensive. Use this type of grout only where you need it. 

Grout color is a powerful design tool that is often overlooked. The higher the contrast between the tile and the grout color (such as white subway tile with black grout), the more obvious any imperfections are. Dark grout can also stain tile, especially tile with crackle glaze. Black grout contains magnesium in the mixture, which increases likelihood of staining. If you prefer to do a high contrast tile and grout, a thicker grout joint, such as 3/16”, is more forgiving. 

Grout color will also darken over time, so it may be wise to specify a darker shade to begin with. A mid-tone or darker grout is recommended for restrooms (especially around urinals and toilets), and high-traffic areas. One designer’s personal go-to is #165 Delorean Gray by Custom Building Products. It’s a happy medium -  forgiving, but not too dark!

Here’s some additional information on grout type, grout size, and grout color.

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Install Tips

  • Be conscious of your lighting, as it may highlight imperfections.

  • Mind the offset! Larger offsets will show lippage.

  • Select appropriate mortar: modified (polymers & latex) versus unmodified (lime, sand, portland cement)

  • For patterned or shaped tile, do a dry lay of a small section to make sure you meet the right aesthetic expectations (think color variation and shape layouts).

  • The installer should make sure to mix boxes of tile (don’t pull just from one box) because there will be some variation, and you want to make sure it is integrated consistently.

Budgeting Tips

  • Most manufacturers have a budget tile line. If you like a tile that is out of budget, ask the manufacturer if they have something similar for less cost.

  • Use a basic tile as a field tile, with more intentional locations of pricey accent tile.

  • Reach out to your tile reps – they may be willing to negotiate price. Higher volume means better pricing. 

  • Stuck between Schluter and tile trim? Schluter will save on cost.

  • Vibrant colors will be more expensive.

Start your searches with an understanding of price ranges using the price filter in our catalog. Pricing references here.

Small Tile Companies vs Large Companies

There are some advantages to specifying from small compared to large tile companies.

Large companies:

  • Greater consistency in pricing, availability, and selection throughout the country

  • Lower prices due to buying power of the company

  • Larger network of customer stores and distribution centers throughout the world

  • Greater rep support throughout the country

  • Can provide project lines of credit to installers to make sure material can be supplied for large projects

  • Can provide national programs for large brands like Grocery Stores, Retail chains, commercial developers, etc

Small companies:

  • They are easy to work with and can be more flexible than larger companies. You can ask reps to see if they can meet your needs

  • They generally manufacture their own tile and sell directly to the end user, so you have more say in negotiation and customization opportunities

  • Some companies dedicate extra time and attention to taking care of their employees and the environment, such as Fireclay Tile, which is a Certified B-Corp. All of Fireclay’s ceramic tiles are made from 50%+ recycled materials. The tiles are made in California, so you are shipping domestically if your project is within the US. Fireclay also offsets 100% of carbon emissions, and they are committed to being zero-waste by 2030

  • Another company to consider is Concrete Collaborative, which is a woman-owned business and has a closed loop water recycling facility. 

  • And, you are almost always supporting a local community!

Author

Maddy Gorman, NCIDQ | Interior Designer

Disclaimer

While we hope you find an incredible amount of value in this article, we surely haven’t been able to cover the broad swath of applications and particular circumstances that will come up on every project. We encourage and suggest that you should connect directly with your manufacturer’s rep regarding the specific specification needs of your project.

You can find your local manufacturer’s rep in the world’s largest commercial construction rep directory here. Grab their contact information, or send a message right on Source. Happy specifying!

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